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source document - rules and mechanics

2020 Revised Tabletop Fanwar Battle System

Source: https://docs.google.com/document/d/10Mi2zdAr8K5ataWheYbctfpWGJbhHmTiZ_AmH4OXf2M/edit

Status: ok 17921 chars. Characters: 17921.

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2021 Revised Tabletop Fanwar Battle System!

2021 Developments -Online Variations:  what follows is the revised online rules format for Fanwar online.  There is also a system included for table top, but this doc focuses on online formats and setup.  For online versions, we do have the Game Master play all the monsters, and we use two online resources to facilitate our games.  The first platform we use is called Roll20.net and allows us to share a game board in a table top like setting where kids can move their pieces around and see what the GM needs them to.  This platform also allows for video and audio communication, but because it is sometimes not as clear, we often use the popular gaming voice and chat app called Discord for sound and general discussion.  If you are running online games, or want to go on an online adventure, you will need Roll20.net and probably a Discord account as well. They are both very easy and quick to sign up for, and both are free.  For online games we don’t have all the players go at the same time, as through voice chat it is often too confusing and there are no baddies to communicate your attack with, so we use the more traditional turn based versions.  Most missions have some puzzle or problem solving element, some role playing elements, and some combat elements, so be prepared in online games to be able to participate in all of these modes.

The Basic Principles:  For a long time I have tried different types of battle systems for LARP indoors, and I have been disappointed with most, leading me to simply do rough battles and encounters.  While this may seem easier, it's turned out to be much harder due to the tremendous amount of strain it puts on the GM to adjudicate things.  This 2019 Revised system went in the other direction, and instead, attempts to create a system that is as similar to actual larping as possible.  For example, instead of the GM playing all the monsters, players do, just like in normal LARP.  Instead of the GM setting up the battlefield for each encounter, the GM can simply setup the terrain for the day, as we would in normal LARP.  Instead of going around the table taking turns, all the baddies go at the same time, and all the players at the same time, interfacing with their respective opponents in real time, as they would in normal LARP.  Players also, sometimes roll dice at the same time as their opponents, making for real time simultaneous dropping of each other like in normal larp, which never happens in table top. This system has tremendous advantages over traditional Table-Top gaming as it can meet the needs of a large group of gamers (20-30 or so) without straining time.  If being run in person, in a large room, it allows the game to run the same as in LARP, with the Game Master handing baddies Magic Items to use, letting them select their classes and make notes while the goodies run a Mini-Mission or On-The-Way Encounter with a Helper, as usual.  Everything has been designed to run just like LARP as much as possible in every situation possible).  Because of this, I have removed all the usual trappings of Table-Top systems such as level bonuses.  In normal LARP, no one has a higher chance to hit because they are higher level, rather, they have more abilities that might successfully affect their target, and this is already factored into the game, and does not need to be added twice.  Similarly, normal LARP relies heavily on exactly where a strike hits, and the rules determine the rest.  Thus, our dice throws focus on exactly where, if anywhere, a player lands a strike, rather than, if that strike deals damage, which is determined by the modifiers to the attack.  Lastly, it is a strongly held belief that this system will only work if it is simple enough that all the players know how to use it after a basic intro and do not have to consult a GM to know what happens next.  The key to this system working is that the system should stand alone, with players able to pair off or run battle all across a crowded room, only needing to ask the GM a question when an odd rules clarification is needed, just like in normal LARP.  What follows is the Core Rule Set which is very much in progress.  If you don’t like something, or think it should change, make sure to test it first, before throwing it out.

Core Rule Set

Rounds and Turn Sequence (Update 7-15-2020):  Players take turns in groups, each taking their actions in turn (or if in person, around a table, they may all take their actions at the same time).  A Round in table top is 10 seconds of in game time (thus, a 20 count).  To run a Round, whoever initiated the combat takes the first actions, along with everyone on their team (i.e. all the baddies, or all the goodies).  The side that goes first and moves their figures if they wish, and announces any attacks or actions to those involved (only).  The attackers all roll and resolve the combat (this is the first 5 seconds of the battle). Next, the priority swaps.  Those who went second, now go first, with the other side having to deal with their actions.  This constitutes one Round in the game (each player getting 3 Actions per Round).  It is helpful if the GM and Players refer to Rounds by number, as in “Round 1 of Actions” which involves each side taking actions.  They would be in “Round 2 of Actions.”  This helps players who are counting up First Aid, being Frozen, and any other timers, as each Round is a 20 count.

Actions (Update 7-15-2020):  The current rule set is based on the concept of Actions that players get on their turn.  During a players turn, they may take 3 actions (note- some GM’s use just one action and melee deals 3 hits, one handed convoke is 2, and two handed is only one).  These actions can be any small ability, skill, or spell that takes roughly 1 second to do.  They are things like swinging a sword, using a skill like Brace. We cannot include an exhaustive list of all the things that take 1 action, but using the 1 second baseline, a GM should be able to determine what is more than 1 action.  Note that Invoking no longer costs an action, but gives you a minus 1 to your attack.  Players are also allowed 1 non-attack action her round as well (3-17-2021)

Responses:  During an opponent's turn defenders cannot take any actions except abilities ruled by the GM to be Responses (Tumble, Avoid, Dispel Magic, Spelltrigger, Defy Death, etc.)  Some of these Responses may require the player to roll to see if they are done “in time.”  For example, if trying to Dispel a Fireball, the defending player will have to roll a “reaction speed” roll which is usually just trying to roll a “hit” on the attacker (i.e rolling above a 5 on a d20, unless the attacker has minuses to their missile attack due to range, which becomes bonuses to your speed roll- see below).  Some of these Responses may not need a timing roll (such as Tumble or Avoid) but if the GM believes the person is overwhelmed by attacks, they may rule that they do need to make timing rolls for those abilities.  A GM may give you bonuses to your reaction speed roll if you use actions to “be ready” for the enemy attack (usually a +1 per action spend this way).

Movement (Update 7-15-2020): Players are allowed 30 feet of “free movement” on their turn, in addition to their three actions.  They could move more but this takes 1 action and a player may move their character 10 feet (or two squares/hexes) each action they take.  Note that you may not move through enemy units unless they are down, nor can you occupy the same space as an allied unit.  You may move through an ally so long as they allow you too.

Enemy Perimeter Attacks:  If you move to a square or hex that is adjacent to an enemy, they get to take 1 attack on you.  This attack is considered to take place at the same time as your next action after that move. Thus, if you move into striking distance with an enemy, they may make any one attack they could make provided this attack only takes 1 action.  This does not allow them to take other actions such as casting spells on themselves or others, etc.  They may only target you with a 1 action attack of their choice.  Note that if you move “around” an enemy they will get to attack you at each square or hex you move to!  Also note that because your attacks happen at the same time, you may drop each other.

Rolling to Hit:- When rolling to hit a target, the player rolls a D20 and consults the chart below to determine exactly where their hit landed.  If they have any bonuses to hit (like +1 to hit) this means they can change their roll up or down by the given bonus.  Thus, if you roll a 16 and would hit Zone 3 front, you could make that a 15 and Anywhere on a Limb so you could land a Hack.  Note that pluses and minus do not apply to a natural 20 or a natural 1, which always apply regardless of bonus or minus.  You may also elect to use cards in your hand to attack (and block) attacks during combat (see the bottom of this doc).





2021 Online “To Hit” Chart (revised 3/13/2021)

Shield Position        Roll - Effect of the Roll - (if a Zone is not specific, the attacker chooses location)

N/A

	20

	=

	Hit where you like and get another action!

	N/A

	19

	=

	open zone

	



	18

	=

	zone 4

	



	17

	=

	zone 4

	



	16

	=

	zone 3, back

	



	15

	=

	zone 3, front

	



	14

	=

	zone 2, lower

	



	13

	=

	zone 2, upper

	



	12

	=

	zone 1, lower

	



	11

	=

	zone 1, upper

	



	10

	=

	zone 0, lower

	



	9

	=

	secondary weapon (hand if no weapon)

	



	8

	=

	secondary weapon (hand if no weapon)

	



	7

	=

	primary weapon (hand if no weapon)

	



	6

	=

	primary weapon (hand if no weapon)

	



	5

	=

	secondary weapon (UB miss completely)

	



	4

	=

	primary weapon hit (UB miss completely)

	



	3

	=

	miss completely

	



	2

	=

	miss completely

	



	1

	=

	Miss and lose your turn. Adjacent enemy may attack you.

	Shield Points and Positioning- To simulate how effective shields are and whether a shield is hit, which matters a great deal for things like UB attacks and Spellturning effects, a shield needs two things; shield points, and position.    

Shield Points Table

	(update 12/18/20)

	Martial Arts (any) 

	1 per open hand

	Buckler

	= 1

	Large Shield

	= 2

	Tower Shield

	= 3 (-1 to attacks)

	The Shield is then positioned on the chart where the player intends to protect by stating the range of numbers they are covering.  Thus, a Tower Shield could be positioned on the range 16-18 if a player has Unbreachability because they are not concerned about being hit in the legs or arms, only the torso, and this is optimal protection for that arrangement.  But someone without Unbreachability might opt for the range of 12-15 because they are worried about being Hacked, and this is a better guard for that.  The chart above has a Shield Position section to allow player to mark where their Shield point range currently is if they wish.

Missile Weapons and Range:  Because missile weapons are both more effective at a distance and less accurate once you are too far away, they have certain modifiers in this combat system.  Beyond 30 feet, missile attacks are at a minus 1.  Beyond 60 feet they are at a minus 2.  Beyond 100 feet and they get an additional minus 1 per 5 feet further you go!  Note that if someone is Dispelling a Missile spell you are using, these minuses become bonuses to their “reaction speed” roll as well.  For Multi-shot, we are using a single roll of the dice and cascading down the chart.  Thus a roll of 14 with three arrows, is 14,13, and 12.

Spellstones and Thrown Items:  If an item has been thrown or cast it is important to note the area it is in.  Rather than mark every item, which would be tedious, players are assumed to be able to collect any thrown or shot items if they pass within 5 feet of the target that they shot at and spend 1 action to retrieve each item.  This includes spellstones, arrows, daggers, etc. and one action must be spent per item retrieved (note that if you are already adjacent to the place the items were thrown, you could spend your turn to gather 5 items with all 5 actions).  You usually do not need to roll to do this successfully, unless the GM rules that doing so makes sense.

Combat Advantages:  Certain matchups of weapons has been shown to give a slight advantage in normal LARP.  To simulate this, I have listed the basic concepts to keep the game simple.

* Longer vs Shorter = +1:  If you have a much longer weapon, you have a slight advantage (yes it isn’t always true, but for simplicity, we will use this).  A GM may also rule that very long weapons like Spears, Staves, and Claymores can reach units that are not adjacent to them.

* Two Weapons vs One = +1:  If you have two weapons to attack with and your opponent only has one, your attacks are all at +1.

* (3-13-2021) Convoking -1 attack, Two-Handed Convoke -2 attack.  Any Convoke attack will be slower and more predictable and thus is at a -1 to attack.  Players may opt to spend an additional action to remove a minus 1 or two action to remove the -2.

* (3-13-2021) Limb Specific Attack +1.  If you are using and ability they specifically targets a limb your attack is at a +1.

* Surprise Attacks and Hiding +4 attack:  Sneak attacks, from hiding places on the field, or if using Hide, Ambush, etc. will have large bonuses due to a player not being able to see you and predict how to block.  This gives you a general +4 or may be an auto-hit the GM believes you are able to do so.  Similarly, if someone is trying to attack a Hiding target that they know is in the area to attack, they can get a minus 4 while trying to hit them.  The +4 also applies to attacking from behind if a players doesn’t know you are there, or a +2 if you are attacking them from behind but they ARE aware you are there.

* Targeting a Down Player = +6:  If you attack is aimed at a player that is down, you have a +6 on that strike.

* Ganging Up (max of 3 on one) = +1:  If more than one person is attacking the same target each will have a +1 due to overwhelming the target.

Playing Baddies in Table Top:  Just like in normal, larp playing a baddy must be done right or the encounter goes wrong.  One of the hardest things to manage in table top is INT changes of baddies.  While it is easy to play a Goblin on the field and miss all the time, doing so with dice is actually hard.  To simulate this, first, the choices a Low INT baddy should make should reflect their INT.  Who they attack and how they move should not be the best.  Also, when making choices about how to apply a plus to hit, generally make the wrong choice (hitting the chest with a Hack for example, when you could have shifted the roll down instead).  Lastly, a few flat minus are in order to help complete the effect.  These pluses and minuses to lower INT apply both for when these beings attack and for when you attack them.  Thus, attacking a zombie gives the attacker a +3 to hit. 





* Low INT = Minus 1 to all rolls (and minus 5% to percentile checks)

* Dense = Minus 2 to all rolls (and minus 10% to percentile checks)

* Stupid = Minus 3 to all rolls (and minus 15% to percentile checks)

* Animal = No Minus to attack.

* High INT Plus 1 to all rolls (and plus 5% to percentile checks)

* Very High INT = Plus 2 to all rolls (and plus 10% to percentile checks)

* Extreme INT = Plus 4-8 depending on creature type (and plus 20-40% to percentile checks)





Unit Markers and Status Indicators

Marking Up Your Unit:  To keep the Game Master from having to tell you what to do every time you begin a game, you should consider the following procedures to be standard unless a Game Master says otherwise.

Select A Unit:  Pick a unit the game master has set out for you to use.  They may have one in mind for you specifically, but more likely they will have a collection of universal units usable by all players that you can choose from and mark up as needed.

Add Name:  You should add your name to the unit.  You may also want to add your character's name as well to help other players role play better.

Add AV:  You should select a circle that corresponds to the color of your AV you would be wearing (Green for AV1, Yellow for AV2, etc.)

  

  



Update your Status:  If your unit gets dropped or killed you need to update it with a red X for down    and a skull and crossbones for dead   .

Update Other Common Status as Needed:  Here are a few commonly used Markers and the complete collection so you can see what other markers might be used for.

  

=Ethereal

  

=Can’t attack (i.e. Fear or Light Touch etc.)

  

=Hacked    

  

=Hiding

  

=Snared





Web =Earthbound





  

=Burning

  

=Treeformed  

  

=Soaring

  

=Damaged but not down.

  

=Poisoned

  

=Frozen

  

In a Duel (may want to indicate with a line who you are dueling)





Online Roll20 based Fanwar LARP Combat Cards

UPDATED 7-15-2020

The Red Attack cards are used in place of an action you could take.  The Blue Defense Cards do not take action, but are only played when you are attacked, and you may only play one per attack made on you.  You currently draw five total cards, of any combination of Red of Blue Cards at the start of each encounter.  If combat happens, you then can use your cards and will draw one additional card at the end each turn you take.  Your maximum hand size is 5, so unless you play a card, you will also have to discard one.  You may draw from either deck and thus can shift strategies part way through a combat.  The Game Master will have 5 as well, plus 1 more for each player in the match.  If they have an assistant Game Master or Helper in the match, this person may also have a deck for their use.

Feel free to import these cards into your Roll20 deck.  It takes a while, but it’s worth it (you have to load each card one by one).